The Iranian Silk Road

Here are the remains of the ancient qaleh (fort) in Deh Namak. This has ‘Sassanian-size’ bricks and is referenced in early Arab chronicles. To the right is the dome of an extant abambar (covered water-tank).

The Iranian Silk Road

Deh Namak (literally, ‘Village of Salt’) was 441km from Isfahan along Shah Abbas’ walk. This satellite image shows the qaleh (fort) and the two caravanserais in this tiny village. I think Shah Abbas probably, in 1601, either camped here or – perhaps – lodged in the fort.

The Iranian Silk Road

This schematic drawing shows the 24 known stopping places along the final part of Shah Abbas’ 1601 walk. Those indicated as open diamonds were included in an Ottoman logistics briefing for a bungled invasion of Iran during the reign of Shah Abbas.

The Iranian Silk Road

After Shah Abbas the First had walked through Kashan and across the kavir area of salt plain and salt mud, he turned eastwards along the Khurasan highroad towards the Holy City of Mashhad. This latter part of the Shah’s route is easy to trace exactly: many pilgrims came – and still come – this way. …

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Happy Iranian (and Kurdish!) New Year

The New Year starts at 05.14 on 20 March in London: click here for the time in other places. To see a very lovely video on the Zoroastrian celebration of New Year, please click here. This video says that the celebration of New Year came even before the time of Zoroaster; and explains how the …

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How to catch an Iranian bear . . using tarof

I have already offered you handy hints in case your hunting-cheetah is indisposed; and suggested how best to address a Musulman lion if you meet it in the Bakhtiari mountains.  Now this week, how to – very politely – catch an Iranian bear. Iranian bears (whether brown or black) of course have manners and intelligence …

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Love and resilience

Here are brief details of most of my Covid-era pieces – so far:Starting from the first lockdown, being forcibly separated from my previous ‘normal’ helped (actually forced!) me to work with a range of new-to-me media – including installation, (prize-winning) film, mixed photo-drawing, and weaving. I’ve used these to reflect on my ever-changing lived experience in the …

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My first forest

Beatrice Leal unfortunately had to defer her SOAS talk about the glorious mosaics in Great mosque of Damascus. But when I took the opportunity to find out as much as i could about her work – some is here and here – she asked why I was interested. So I am revisiting my first forest …

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