When I very first came to Isfahan, years ago and on an overnight bus from Shiraz, the early morning darkness of cold suburbs and dull office blocks was suddenly transformed into a softly-illuminated miracle of supreme architectural beauty as we clattered over the splendid 33-span bridge constructed by Allahverdi Khan. I remember gazing out, sleepily amazed, and agreeing with Junabadi, who summed it up nicely in 1617 when he wrote that “as long as the wheeling stars of the sky above circle this world, the like of this building will never come before their gaze”.
It is not clear exactly when the bridge was constructed – evidence has been produced for various dates between 1596 and 1607 – but the architect was one Mir Jamal al-Din Muhammad Jabiri, under the supervision of Allahverdi Khan. The latter was already experienced in hydraulic projects following his patronage of a dam at Shiraz in 1600 (as well as being supreme commander of the army; handy assassin of high status power-rivals for Shah Abbas; and a key player in the shift of land-ownership to khassa or ‘crown’ provinces and the linked transfer of power from qizilbash to ghulams).
The bridge is actually multi-functional, serving also as: a dam or sluice (depending on water levels); a 300 metre promenade linking Shah Abbas’ urban developments north and south of the Zayandeh River; and a place to view all the various spectacles staged in and around the river.
In 1619, for example, the Spanish Ambassador Figueroa describes witnessing the Ab Pashan, the Water Festival, next to the Si o Se Pol. Then, all the men of Isfahan, dressed in short tunics and carrying large brass bowls, convened on the banks of the river and “on a signal from the Shah [Abbas], began hurling water at one another, laughing, leaping about and shouting – a very gay spectacle. In doing this they get so excited that in the end they completely lose their heads”. Men hit each other on the head with their bowls, and threw one another into the river. When the Shah was eventually roused from his afternoon nap to call a halt to the festivities, no less than five people had been drowned.
It is great, you make people to like to visit this “politicaly prablamatic” place…
Prhaps we could bulld something similar over the Thames … good-looking.
We already have . . sort of, tho much less fun, and (?) less good looking! The Thames Barrier does the sluice / dam function anyway
Of course even I know about the Thames Barrier! Just thought something like the Si o Se Pol would have been so much better to look at but may not be so practical for large ships!
I definitely agree on the good looking – but should have been more clear about my thanks to you for helping me think of the Thames Barrier as a sort-of equivalent, when I hadnt done that before! Thankyou! Please do keep commenting – both your comments were great (I’m emailing The Field to ask them if they can remember the article you mentioned)
Dear Sarah,
Thames Barrier and Si o Se Pol are inevitably different from each other to make a comparison. how is possible to compare any element of Thames Barrier which has inaugurated in 1984 which Si o Se Pol in 1596-1607 ?!