Crime and punishment: Safavid-style

Pincon wrote of the inhumanity and cruelty of Shah Abbas to his subjects, of how he “cut off their heads for the slightest offence, having them stoned, quartered, flayed alive and given alive to the dogs, or to the forty Anthropophagi and man-eaters that he always has by him”. But Chardin, who not only spent …

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Bakhtiari at Bonhams

I’ve been taking my own advice and enjoying myself looking at the Islamic sales in London. As well as the star tile from Khargird at Christies that I focused on last week, it was also great to see a 1920-21 album of photos of Bakhtiari men at Bonhams. This album includes a photo of Samsan …

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Khargird madrese tiles in the autumn sales

This autumn’s London Islamic sales (click here for the links, in alphabetical order, for Bonhams, Christies and Sothebys) include a collection of tiles which are surely from the Khargird madrese in NE Iran. I have a special fondness for this building – and have seriously mixed feelings when I see more of the tiles on …

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Islam at the Louvre

The new galleries at the Louvre – simply titled: Islam – will be opening on 22 September. They are sited in an exciting new gallery, intended to evoke silk floating in the courtyard. The BBC film here summarises the architectural intent – and feat (there are no obvious supporting pillars). The Louvre collection is both …

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Horse-racing on wheels?

All the European visitors to Persia were fascinated by polo. Pinçon (travelling with the Sherleys in 1599) wrote about how: “The King of Persia and his nobles take exercise by playing pall-mall on horseback, which is a game of great difficulty: their horses are so well trained at this that they run after the balls …

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Amusing Shah Abbas

The Shah didn’t always act like a great warrior, major world leader, and major patron of architecture. Here he is, according to the Chronicle of the Carmelites – acting much more like a very annoying small boy: “One Friday therefore, on the 17th July [1609], while [Fathers Benignus and Redemptus] were in the Maidan near …

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Painted and henna-stained

… new-bathed, painted and henna-stained, and scented sweet. (Sa’di, 1258) Last week I saw a rare painting of a beautiful young woman painting her feet with henna. She has very lovely, multi-layered clothing, and is leaning against a splendidly orange cushion (with a graceful golden duck). The lady has her feet on a pile of …

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Muratowicz’ journey

In 1601 Muratowicz, travelled  from Poland to Isfahan and back to buy, amongst other things, some carpets. Here’s a map showing what a long way it was: View muratowicz working.kmz in a larger map Muratowicz’ journey is not exactly the same as most European traders visiting Persia (he travels south of the Via Tartarica through …

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Woodworking

This piece in Edirne, in Western Turkey, is in poor condition, which allows the construction method to be seen: it is made from many relatively simple wooden pieces, slotted together, and then ‘framed’. [C.W.3]