Piped water in the desert, Safavid-style

Recently, I showed you some Safavid-era public fountains, in Isfahan.  But the massive infrastructure developments of the era included installation of water supplies in the most unlikely places – for example, in the desert area sandwiched between 40km of salt plains (the Darya Namak), and 30km of salt mud (click here for a photo of …

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Shaykh Bakhaie and his camel oil mill

Shaykh Bahaie is renowned as a polymath – theologian, mathematician, philosopher, poet and physician – during the reign of Shah Abbas I.  My favourite invention of his is an angled-stone sundial at the Masjid-e Shah in Isfahan, the shadows of which accurately indicate prayer times. Nearby Bahaie’s hamam in Isfahan (the water of which was …

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Ladies in Bakhtiariland – and the Constitutional Revolution

Dr Elisabeth Macbean Ross (author of the renowned ‘A Lady Doctor in Bakhtiariland’) was the physician for the “Bibis or great ladies, wives, sisters and mothers of the leading [Bakhtiari] Khans” for around four years from 1910.  She usually visited each of the many “Gha[l]ehs or castles” for several weeks, and there “enjoyed the almost …

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Safavid water fountains in Isfahan

The Masjid-e Jame in Isfahan was not the only congregational mosque in Buyid Isfahan: the Jurjir mosque was constructed sometime shortly before 985CE for the vizier Ibn Abbad, a Mutazilite scholar who transformed the court of the ruler Abu Mansur Moayyed-al-Dawla into a transnational literary centre. Only a fragment of the façade of the latter …

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Ghalamkari

This week, an amazing old Negah video showing all the stages of Ghalam-kari (also called qalamkari or wood-block printing), including the preparation of the cloth [@ 2.50 minutes], the first rinse [3.00], the printing [3.40 and 6.30]; and the carving of the blocks [5.55]. The video says [1.00] that the craft started in the time …

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Surviving a bullet?

When Shah Abbas walked along the Khurasan Highroad on his way to Mashhad in 1601, one of the places he stopped at is recorded by Munajjim Yazdi as Ribat-i Qusha (the fort at Qusha: 601km from Isfahan). A dervish named Kamal had walked with the Shah from Kashan and, around Qusha, Kamal is reported to …

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More on the Chini-kana

Siavash queried the architectural origins of the Chini-kana, in one of his (thankyou, Siavash!) interesting comments. I thought I’d add a note about this, drawing on AH Morton’s very helpful paper, “The Ardabīl Shrine in the Reign of Shāh Ṭahmāsp I”. Iran Vol. 12 (1974), pp. 31-64 AHM reports that ME Weaver, a UNESCO consultant …

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Washing up – and the Ardabil collection

Some of you may already have noticed that UNESCO inscribed the Sheikh Safi al-din Khānegāh and Shrine Ensemble in Ardabil on its World Heritage list on 31 July 2010.  In the citation, it was described as a “rare ensemble of medieval Islamic architecture”; incorporating a route to reach the shrine of Sheikh Safi “divided into …

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