Starting from Isfahan
Near the site of Masjid-i Tuqchi was the Qushkane or Aviary Gardens, the site for the reception of dignitaries and ambassadors arriving in Isfahan. It is now the public ‘Park of the Birds’.
Starting from Isfahan
Masjid-i Tuqchi was the first stopping place for Shah Abbas, just outside the city walls. Now the location is covered by a large roundabout. [SA1.6]
Starting from Isfahan
This satellite image shows the modern locations of some of the key sites in Safavid Isfahan. Masjid-i Tuqchi, now destroyed, was just outside the city walls in 1601. The modern ‘Park of the Birds’ was originally an elite bagh (garden), for the reception of dignitaries and foreign ambassadors, visiting Shah Abbas’ Isfahan. [SA1.5]
Song of the Acorn: a Bakhtiari poem
The holly-oak tree, with its large, oval acorns, used to cover the inner ranges of the Bakhtiari country. Now, environmental changes mean that it’s being lost. Lorimer describes how, in the old days of its abundance and “in time of scarcity [acorns] are ground into flour after prolonged treatment to get rid of their more …
The Parted Lovers: a Bakhtiari poem
Two lovers dream of each other, and the land that both separates and unites them in this sensual poem. When the warm weather comes, and the woman has gone off with the tribe to the ‘Cold Country’ (called sardsir, sarhador yelaq,). For the first time, the man has been left behind in the ‘Warm Country’ (garmsir), to …
Factional fighting: a Bakhtiari poem
This ballard describes brave men and a gorgeous woman who were also included in Henry Layard’s account of his 1841 sojourn and fighting alongside the Bakhtiari – shortly before he discovered Nineveh/Nimrud (see www.soas.ac.uk/gallery/bakhtiari-kuch/eet/layard/ for more information and images). The poem is about the battle between the Duraki and Behdarwand tribes. Ja’far Quli Khan was chief of …
The Ballad of ‘Abdu Khalil: a Bakhtiari poem
This poem derides the excessive size and eating of ‘Abdu Khalil: the Khan’s agent to the Mulmuli section of the Raid tribe of the Haftlang. The ordinary people call on honour as they expect – or at least hope – that their Khan will hear their pleas for help: A seven-pole tent is his cloak: The …
Slim Wali: a Bakhtiari poem
This poem hails ‘Slim’ Wali, who was so successful in his burglary that silk was ‘like cotton yarn’ to him. He was from the Mauri tribe of the Haftlang and lived at Chilau, Bazuft. They call me ‘Slim Wali’: this year I am in gaol. Between Kichuz and Pas Galla, I have broken into seven houses. A …
Mourning Chant: a Bakhtiari poem
This traditional lament shows the depth and strength of grief. It is said to be ‘very old’. Lorimer apparently originally recorded 24 lines, but only reported the first eight. He writes “It is said that after a man’s death his clothes are tied up in a bundle (buqca). Then, every day in the year that …
Letter from a Lur to the Shah: a Bakhtiari poem
This poem has a hilarious satirical kick – literally – in its ending. It is not clear which Qajar king this might have been addressed to; and Lorimer is not even sure if the language in this poem is convincingly Bakhtiari. However, it’s certainly an example of satire. I want a man wise and crafty, …