Ice and ice-houses

Ice was a historical commonplace in Persia: Fryer wrote of how in 1677 the Persians “mightily covet cool things to the Palat. Wherefore they mix snow, or dissolve ice in their Water, Wine or Sherbets,”.  Even the poorest, “have they but a Penny in the World, the one half will go for Bread, and dried Grapes, and the other for Snow and Tobacco”.

Three derelict yakchals, or icehouses, near Sabsavar

Nineteenth century travellers like CJ Wills also commented on the universality of ice and ices (click here for the full text of his book): “The great thing in such a place is the cheapness of ice, for about 15 shillings in dear years and 5 shillings in cheap ones, ice can be obtained all through the warm weather . . . as no one would think of drinking anything uncooled. A huge block is thrown down each morning by the ice seller – it is supposed to weigh 14 lbs. The Persians well understand the art of making water ices and ice-creams, and varieties unknown to us are made by them, such as tamarind juice, pomegranate and cherry water ices, iced mast or curdled milk, and various ices of pounded fruits such as apricots and cherries, which are very good . . . In fact the cheapness of provisions generally causes among the well-to-do a lavishness and profusion, not to call it waste, unknown in Europe.”

Ice-pans in Shiraz. Image from Wilkinson, MMABull 1943

With this profligacy, and bearing in mind the warm climate and desert conditions across much of Persia, the making and storing of ice was elevated to a fine art.

Satellite view of the Sabzavari yakchals, and the neighbouring ice pans. Google Earth Image

Wills gives a detailed description: “The delicious Ab-i-Rookhi (stream of Rookhnabad) is diverted from its course on the first cold night. A few inches of still clear water is collected in the pond, by morning it is frozen . .  at night the water is again admitted and another inch or two of ice is made. When three to six inches thick the ice is broken and collected for storage in a deep well on the spot; and so day by day the process goes on during the short winter, until the ware-houses are full. Should the supplies from these be exhausted by a very large demand, ice, or rather blocks of snow, are brought from the mountains; but as these are some distance, and snow melts faster than ice, the weights being equal, the price rises.”

 

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