Siahkuh and Haramserail

The elaborate eleven-sided corner towers and stone walls, seen here in the 1970s, are still now in relatively good condition. When he visited, Morton found what seemed to be the local quarry for the stone. [SA.M.5]

Siahkuh and Haramserail

This is the ‘back’ entrance of Qasr-i Bahram in the 1970s. The doors have been changed, and the small canal supplying water is now more visible, but otherwise this looks almost exactly the same now. [SA.M.4]

Siahkuh and Haramserail

Qasr-i Bahram, as the building is now called locally, is still stunning. Local experts say it was built as a hunting lodge for Shah Abbas. Graffiti recorded in the building in 1971 included a date of 1001AH/1592CE. Despite this, there is no record of Abbas stopping here when he passed in 1601 on the 1000km …

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Siahkuh and Haramserail

In 1628, Herbert described the “notable” caravanserai at Syacow, “which is built from the ground of good freestone, white and well polished, yea to the best of my remembrance . . this was the first building of this material I saw in eight hundred miles”. Here it is in the 1970s, when AH Morton visited. …

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Siahkuh and Haramserail

This image shows the area north-east of Kashan, up towards the Khurasan Highroad. In 1601, Shah Abbas walked through Kushab (bottom left here) and Dastkan, then across the white salt wastes of the Darya Namak, via Hauz-i Aga Muhammad and up towards Pul-i Shurab. He apparently did not stop at any of the three nearby …

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Siahkuh and Haramserai

Siahkuh (also called Abbasabad or Qasr-i Bahram) and Haramserail are situated close together, and between the fearsome salt plains of the Darya Namak and a 30km expanse of salty mud. Siahkuh is said to have been built as a hunting lodge for Shah Abbas the First, while the nearby Haramserail is suggested to have been …

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In depth

A traditional way to transport women and pilgrims, as seen by Curzon in 1889Khargerd madrese before any restorationKhargerd madrese in 2010The 1601 journey of Sefer Muratowicz from Poland to buy carpets in KashanThe Chinikhana at Ardabil, built for Shah Abbas porcelain collectionThe royal hunting lodge at Siahkuh, as visited by AH Morton in 1970Tiles, paint ...

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