This week – something special for my Bakhtiari subscribers. An extra welcome to you all!
My posting on Bakhtiari poetry recitations mentioned how the people and places in one of the poems on this website (on the battle of the Duraki and Behdarwand) are, according to their translator DLR Lorimer, traceable in Henry Layard’s book describing his adventures living and fighting alongside the Bahktiari in the 1840s.
I especially wanted to know more about Sitara – celebrated in the poem for her velvet tresses and pearls: “none other like her was to be found among the Bakhtiari” – and after 700 plus pages of Layard, at last I’ve found her!
According to Layard, ‘Sattara Khanum’ was the head of nine wives – including “some very pretty young women”, all of whom lived “under the same tent and apparently in good fellowship”. Jaffer Kuli Khan, Sattara’s husband, was away from home when Layard arrived at the family diz [fortress or natural stronghold], so he was received by Sattara Khanum, who “did the honours, sent me an excellent supper, and gave me an ancient Persian seal, upon which was engraved a king contending with two winged horses beneath the emblematic figure of Ormuzd”.
This ‘telesm’, or charm, was intended to protect Layard and, despite the blood feud between the two families, may perhaps have been in recognition of Layard’s earlier loyalty to Mehmet Taki Khan (whose castle is shown here). Layard’s fidelity was also apparently the reason for Jaffer Kuli Khan’s acceptance of the outsider. Jaffer Kuli Khan was generally “exceedingly suspicious of strangers and especially jealous of his stronghold”, but he welcomed Layard and even let him stay on the top of his diz as “proof of my confidence in you; for my own brothers are not permitted to ascend to it – and as for those Turks [the Qajars], they shall never come within sight of it”.
Climbing up from the diwankhana [audience] cave at the base of the diz, where most guests were entertained and then dismissed; Jaffer Kuli Khan “[took] hold of the shawl round [Layard’s] waist with a firm grasp” and dragged him up the perpendicular sides of the diz “evidently much delighted with the impression which this extraordinary hill-fort could not fail to make”.
The lower diz was then a platform, with a “small perennial spring, and several large reservoirs for collecting rain-water, apparently of ancient date, cut in the rock”. Jaffer Kuli Khan and his wives and children lived there in their traditional black goat-hair tents. The upper diz was only accessible from the lower by the aid of more ladders and ropes and it “consisted of a spacious table-land . . capable of producing about six thousand pounds of wheat, and of supporting a small flock of sheep and goats”.
Layard supplies lots more details about life on the diz, and how Jaffer Kuli Khan was summoned away, first entreating Layard, if the chief was betrayed and held captive, to shoot his wives to ensure they could not be dishonoured. Layard had “no wish to remain in charge of Jaffer Kuli Khan’s stronghold, nor to find [himself] under the necessity of carrying out his instructions with respect to his wives and children”. He therefore set off again into the mountains, where he incidentally passed by the grave of ‘Madani’, “one of the bravest of the Bakhtiyari horsemen”, and perhaps the ‘Mandini’ who was also included in the Duraki / Behdarwand poem.
Fascinating reading!
En passant: Do write the captions for the illustrations in a different typescript.
Thanks!
I’ve tried to sort the captions – but not managed – I’ll try again next week!
Very interesting reading and thank you Caroline.
I wonder what Sattara actual means in Persian? I know a similar female name in Persian; “ Setareh” [ Se-Ta-Reh] which means Star.
Anyway this is an excellent article…
Regards
Siavash (Ramin)
Thanks for commenting so interestingly, Siavush! I think it is likely to be what you suggest: Setareh / Star – as all the transcriptions tend to change words a little. That transcription-creep in Bakhtiari names is actually the topic the week after next – now you’ve made this point I’ll change that entry to reference your comment, if that’s OK? Caroline
Hi Caroline,
You may be interested in my other blog as well. It is about my life in the Middle East, which has ended unfortunately three years ago. Have a look here:
http://al-qanaa.blogspot.com/
Thank you Caroline,
This really is my first time i visit right here. I discovered so many interesting stuff in your blog particularly its discussion. From the tons of comments on your content articles, I guess I am not the only one having all the enjoyment right here! keep up the good function.
Thanks for this!
Look at next weeks blog for more on Sattara – with more details of who I think she is . .
Caroline
Great text and nice blog.
I just wanted to say your blog has really been helpful to me and I thank you for your time and effort working on it. Good Luck! 🙂