Slim Wali: a Bakhtiari poem

This poem hails ‘Slim’ Wali, who was so successful in his burglary that silk was ‘like cotton yarn’ to him. He was from the Mauri tribe of the Haftlang and lived at Chilau, Bazuft. They call me ‘Slim Wali’: this year I am in gaol. Between Kichuz and Pas Galla, I have broken into seven houses. A …

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Bakhtiari poetry and DLR Lorimer

Above: DLR Lorimer was originally in the colonial service in India, before he was posted to Persia. Here he is, in 1909, shortly after his renegotiation of the key 1905 oil agreement. (This image is reproduced with the kind permission of Christina Lorimer, DLR Lorimer’s grand niece). Bakhtiari poetry has been described as “revealing the …

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In depth

A traditional way to transport women and pilgrims, as seen by Curzon in 1889Khargerd madrese before any restorationKhargerd madrese in 2010The 1601 journey of Sefer Muratowicz from Poland to buy carpets in KashanThe Chinikhana at Ardabil, built for Shah Abbas porcelain collectionThe royal hunting lodge at Siahkuh, as visited by AH Morton in 1970Tiles, paint ...

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Starting from Isfahan

In 1601, Shah Abbas the First started by walking northwards from his new and still only partly built capital, Isfahan, up towards the busy trading city of Kashan. A Polish carpet merchant, Sefer Muratowicz, had dinner with Shah Abbas the night before the thousand-kilometre walk started and reported: “Starting the next morning, having put on …

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Starting from Isfahan

This schematic drawing (Figure 2 in Mawer 2010a) shows how many of the key buildings in Safavid Isfahan had not yet been built in 1601, when the Shah set off on his walk to Mashhad. [SA1.4.]

Starting from Isfahan

This annotated map shows some of the key buildings in Safavid Isfahan. Shah Abbas started from the Naqsh-i Jahan Palace, just off Maydan-i Shah, and halted first at Masjid-i Tuqchi, just outside the city walls. [SA1.3]